In Vancouver
Surprise, surprise - the laidback Canadian city has been quietly emerging as a culinary destination
by Wu Shangyuan travel@mediacorp.com.sg
AT THE risk of being stoned with chilli crab mantou buns by fellow Singaporeans, I'm proud to say that I've never been desparately homesick for good Singaporean food in the last four years I've lived in Vancouver. (Cue outrage from food-obsessed friends back home.)
I'll let you in on a little secret: Vancouver, of all places in North America, is an up-and-coming culinary hub.
Yes, Vancouver. The largest city in the province of British Columbia is probably better known as the place migrating Taiwanese and Hong Kongers have chosen to reside, as well as a stand-in for American cities in Hollywood movies and TV shows such as Smallville, the Twilight franchise and the upcoming Mission: Impossible 4.
But where there is a constant flow of movie stars, you can bet your bottom dollar there will be great food available. Where else would folk like Tom Cruise eat?
Jean-Georges Vongerichten has set up his Market restaurant at Shangri-La Vancouver; world-famous Canadian chefs like the James Beard-award winner Michael Smith (star of The Food Network's Chef At Home and Chef Abroad) cooked up a storm for the world's athletes at Vancouver's Winter Olympic Games last year; while fellow countryman Rob Feenie, who leads the cooking team at Vancouver's sleek restaurant chain Cactus Club Cafe, claimed the Iron Chef title in 2005 by defeating Chef Masaharu Morimoto.
Vancouver's famous culinary schools like the Pacific Institute Of Culinary Arts and The Art Institute Of Vancouver churn out fresh graduates by the hundreds every year - many of whom have gone on to work in some of the best kitchens in the city.
Also, Vancouver's long-standing multi-cultural ways have contributed greatly to the food scene as they bring their influences to the plate. Classy restaurants as well as eclectic hole-in-the-wall joints serve up a delish selection of ethnic dishes that remind you of home.
Asia in Canada
The vast array of Asian food here is astounding with cheap Asian haunts serving authentic grub. That's because many of the chefs in these restaurants hail directly from Asia. It's Asian food for Asian people. We're talking about the real deal - marinated, spiced and cooked just the way we like it.
In fact, the Chinese food here is deemed in some circles to be - don't choke on your prawn dumpling now - even better than what you'll find in Hong Kong and China, due to Vancouver's proximity to the Pacific Ocean for ultra fresh seafood, and the resettling of some of the best Chinese chefs.
Just last year, Conde Nast Traveler magazine declared Vancouver to have the best Chinese food restaurants on the entire planet after eating 38 meals in the city.
Don't take its word for it. Just drop by the Richmond area and pop into one of the many Chinese restaurants that have won raves from diners. You can't go wrong with dim sum at Jade Chinese Seafood Restaurant, or Lin Chinese Cuisine And Tea House (www.linchinese.ca) for its perfectly-made morsels of xiao long bao.
For some heat, make your way to Seri Malaysia Restaurant (2327 East Hastings Street) for mind-blowing beef rendang and mee goreng mamak. My favourite Singapore restaurants downtown are Tropika (www.tropika-canada.com) on Robson Street and Banana Leaf (www.bananaleaf-vancouver.com) on Denman Street.
While they're a little pricier - a big dish of hokkien mee or fried bee hoon costs about S$15 - these prices are pretty standard for restaurants in the city centre.
From classy to stuff-your-face silly
I know, I know you didn't come all the way to Vancouver just to eat Chinese or Asian food (well, some of you might not be able to help yourselves). True Vancouver cuisine is dictated by the mild four seasons enjoyed here and the amazing Pacific Northwest seafood haul its privvy to.
Also, many of the best restaurants practically worship the picturesque beauty of the city by offering fantastic views that almost distract from the sumptuous seafood you're biting into.
There's nothing like tucking into Dungeness crab or a halibut burger with a view of the waterfront at the award-winning Bridges Restaurant, Bistro And Bar (www.bridgesrestaurant.com) on Granville Island.
Another mainstay on the scene is Raincity Grill (www.raincitygrill.com) overlooking English Bay. It's "dedicated to the celebration of all things Vancouver" by relying mostly on local and regional produce. Have a taste of their excellent cooking - without breaking the bank - by going early for the three-course prix-fixe menu between 5pm to 6pm.
Interestingly, Vancouverites are pretty fond of the food phenomenon Singaporeans are more than familiar with - the buffet.
From East European fare with the likes of Vienna Schnitzel at Balkan House's (www.balkanhouse.info) for S$15.95, to the Chocoholic Buffet at the Sutton Place Hotel (www.vancouver.suttonplace.com), you can fully count on getting your money's worth.
There's no lack of bars in Vancouver as well. The talented bartenders here (some prefer to be called "bar chefs") love shaking up potent, fresh and handmade cocktails. The newest and hippest on the block is The Keefer Bar. With its dark, sexy ambience, it is the place to sip on chic apothecary-styled drinks such as the China Doll, made with ingredients such as Yuzu marmalade, sparkling wine and red ginseng.
On the other end of the spectrum, Vancouver's dive bars are as boisterous as they come. The Brickhouse feels like you're in someone's grungy basement, with the bartender known for his year-long uniform of bike shorts and fanny pack. Pay no mind - it's only S$6.30 for a big glass of wine.
In Vancouver, you can eat all day and drink all night. Which might explain why people want to retire here.
Getting there
Major airlines like Singapore Airlines and Cathay Pacific fly from Singapore to Vancouver.
Where to stay:
The city's beloved by travellers so there's plenty of options. There's a St Regis hotel in downtown Vancouver currently offering a shopping package from S$439 a night with a CAD$100-gift card (S$125) thrown in. Visit www.stregishotel.com/specials-packages for details. Funky boutique hotel Listel offers a Books, Breakfast And Bed package for S$200 per night, which includes breakfast and a copy of Vancouver Stories, a collection of short stories by Canada's finest writers.
What to do:
Where do you want to start? From the outdoors to shopping malls, Vancouver's got it all. There's the new Portobello West market (www.portobellowest.com) that opened at the Olympic village for artisans selling their wares. For some natural thrills, try the Treetops Adventure (www.capbridge.com) and cross the Capilano Suspension Bridge, which is 70m above the Capilano River.
This article was featured in Today June 9, 2011.
http://www.todayonline.com/Travel/EDC110609-0000299/Chow-down-in-Vancouver