Take a breather from rowdy Beijing by Tiffany Tan traveller@newstoday.com.sg Mahua is sold in almost every Tianjin street corner and comes in many flavours. The former Sino-Russian Bank building on Jiefang North Road. A set of Niren Zhang figurines which give an insight into human nature. I LOVE Beijing's ancient grandeur, its dizzying array of shops and restaurants, and most of all its energy - a city determined to secure a place among the world's business, political and cultural centres. But after spending two years there, the Chinese capital can sometimes become too big, too crowded, too noisy. I've found respite in Tianjin, a port city 30 minutes away by train. It is an easy day trip for those who want to see what lies beyond the Olympic city. ONE OF WORLD'S FASTEST TRAINS High-speed trains that link Beijing and Tianjin, which debuted for the 2008 Olympics, operate at speeds up to 350kmh, halving intercity travel time. (Japan's bullet trains only travel up to 300kmh.) The clean and roomy carriages are divided into first-class (68 yuan or $14.60) and ordinary seats (58 yuan). Getting to and from Beijing Nanzhan (South Railway Station) is a headache: It is about an hour away from the central business district and cabbies outside the station pull a long face at passengers travelling a short distance. But the problem should ease when Subway Line 4 , with a stop at the station, opens on Oct 1, the 60th founding anniversary of the People's Republic. A STROLL BACK IN TIME Tianjin's most famous attraction is its concession architecture, best appreciated through a leisurely stroll. The 1858 treaties of Tianjin, signed during the Second Opium War (1856-60), gave Britain and France concessions in the city. Between 1895 and 1902, concessions were also given to Japan, Germany, Russia, Austria-Hungary, Italy and Belgium. Tianjin developed rapidly and is now the leading port in northern China and the country's third-largest municipality after Shanghai and Beijing. The "financial street", Jiefang North Road, is lined with grand, turn-of-the-20th-century buildings. These include the former Sino-Russian bank, dating from 1895; the Yokohama Specie Bank (1926), now housing the Bank of China; and the earlier Sino-French Industrial and ommercial Bank (1932). A peek inside them revealed high ceilings, chandeliers and gleaming marble or wood surfaces. Wudadao, or "five large roads", was a wealthy neighbourhood in the early 20th century. Some of the European-style villas and houses in this leafy and quiet area have been converted into inns, restaurants and cafes. Visitors with tired feet can hire horse-drawn carriages to take them around. PARTNERSHIP OF COMMERCE, HISTORY Most tourists do not leave Tianjin without a visit to Guwenhua Jie (Ancient Culture Street), a market overflowing with Chinese calligraphy instruments, tea sets, old books, traditional clothing and souvenirs. The area was renovated ahead of the Games, but the facelift diminished the grittiness that gave it an old-world feel. At the market, I discovered Tianjin's famous Niren Zhang, or painted clay figurines. The vendor had a set of five babies depicting humans' basic preoccupation: Eating, playing, sleeping, urinating and defecating. It is crass or enlightened, depending on your point of view. Other figures (6 yuan each) are shown skipping rope, holding a painting, eating a watermelon, playing a flute or gossiping with a neighbour. TRADITIONAL FOOD FAVOURITES When it comes to traditional delicacies, Tianjin is synonymous with Goubuli Baozi (steamed stuffed bun), mahua (dough twist) and Erduoyan Zhagao (fried cake). Goubuli, which literally means "the dog does not pay any attention", was created by a man nicknamed Gouzi, or "baby dog". In 1858, he sold steamed stuffed buns which became a hit for their flower-shaped, soft covering and fragrant, juicy meat filling. Business was brisk, so Gou couldn't spare the time to chat with customers. He - and his business - thus became known as "Goubuli". The company now has five restaurants in Tianjin. A few branches offer both fine dining and fast food. Set meals of two of its most popular buns - pork (56 yuan) and three delicacies (pork, shrimp and sea cucumber at 58 yuan) - are available from its fast-food counters. Erduoyan cakes, as the name suggests, are shaped like an ear flap. They have a chewy covering and ground red bean stuffing. Nanshi Food Street in Heping District is the best place to hunt for them (1.50 yuan a piece). Mahua, the only one among the three with a "normal" name, can be found on almost every street corner. The dough twist comes in an overwhelming variety of flavours: Corn, salt and pepper, green bean, hawthorn and black sesame, to name a few. It is sold under different brands and can cost as much as 60 yuan for a box of eight. Take it home as a gift or munch on it as you sit outside a hundred-year-old building in Tianjin, relishing the relative peace and quiet. http://www.todayonline.com/Traveller/EDC090806-0000042/Mini-escape-to-Tianjin